Monacoers Daily News 8/03/2024 - Monacoers (2024)

Norcold 1200 running on propane, freezer works well but refrigerator not getting cold at all finns or walls.

Need the freezer to get through this tropical storm on west coast of Florida.

I have a portable fridge for the cold food.

Is there any danger running just the freezer?

No error codes and can't hear the fan which I usually do.

2001 Diplomat 40'

Thanks,

Mitchell

This RV Norcold 1210 gas/electric refrigerator was Purchased new March 26, 2024.

It is an exact replacement in size to the original Norco 1200.

We have had a problem with it not turning the cooling fans on in the back since we bought it. The workaround was I put a fan up there in the back of the refrigerator from outside and it works fine that way. It also works fine if you connect the two fan wires together at the thermoswitch, but the built in fans in the back will run all the time. It would also work if you wanted to put an adjustable switch on the fans, that way you could turn the fans down to a slower speed, since they will be running all the time, but quietly. That workaround is the only thing it needs to work like brand new. We used it that way for about three months and they finally sent us new replacement fridge. This is essentially a new refrigerator, but you would not get a warranty with it. The cost for a new one is $4000-$6000 and you can get one for a fraction of the price as long as you don’t mind having the fan in the rear of the frig run all the time.

One other note. The refrigerator works fine out here where I took the pictures. It’s just when you put it into the closed area in an RV that the fans need to do their job and cool the fins.

When you buy one of these, you don’t get the door panels and that’s why you see the silver on the doors.

We took off the panels off of our old refrigerator and put them on this one. That way it matches our interior decor. If you have an old Norco 1200 you can do the same thing as we did.

Alternatively, you can purchase black door panels to put on it

Thanks,
Bill
USN Retired

IMG_0858.MOV

I wanted to give a bit more information after the first month or so of setting up the Renogy LFP and component conversion and Magnum charger set up.

The Magnum charger smartened up and stopped the erratically cycling between charging cycles after the batteries had been discharged and charged a few times. Now the solar panels do the charging and the charger will sit in Silent mode until the LFP voltage hits Rebulk voltage. Under 09 Final charge mode: Silent charge mode I changed the Rebulk voltage to 12.6 V because I found that the charger would kick in early at 12.8 V if high demand appliance would kick in like the macerating toilet. At 12.6 V now the batteries will go to around 20% SOC and cut the charger in.

At 20% SOC on the Renogy One my Smart Battery Shunt reads 12.92 V, the Magnum display reads 12.8 to 12.9 V, and the DC to DC charger reads 12.8 V. When flushing the macerating toilet it will drop about 0.2 V below this because of the high energy draw.

I had made a few changes from the original settings. AGM 2 charge profile (Absorb = 14.5 V, Float = 13.5 V, EQ 14.5 V) works great for charging the LFPs, however I changed the 03 Absorb Time to 6 hours and 05 Charge Rate to 60% for the following reasons.

I turned off the solar charger and drained the batteries down to 20% SOC. What I found after was that at these settings listed above the charger would Absorb charge at around 60 to 70 amps depending on draw on the motorhome components. At this Bulk/Absorb charge current the batteries would gain 20% SOC every 1.5 hours. From 20% to 100% SOC the total is 6 hours with charger alone. This does not include a solar system.

Now with my solar system the LFPs will only dip a little on cloudy days and the charger does not kick in. When on a road trip or boon docking I am going to need the charger to kick in at 20% SOC because my new Samsung RF18 fridge will be pulling off the inverter.

All in all, I am very happy with the Renogy system. I think the last step will be to add one more panel so have two sets of panels in series/parallel (200W+150W series) in parallel with another (200W+150W series).

4 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

No good reason to do that, as a matter of fact, many if not most of us have eliminated the disconnect function of the switch.

So when you store your rig you just disconnect the batteries?

Your absorption fridge works on the mixture of chemicals which are heated then circulated to the freezer area first followed by the fridge area second. I don't have anything good to say about absorption fridges except that I got rid of mine back in 2012 for a residential and would NEVER own another RV with an absorption fridge.

Yours is probably clogged somewhere and not functioning correctly.

1 minute ago, FlynPirate said:

So when you store your rig you just disconnect the batteries?

Yes, if you have no charging source for days to come. If for a long time, physically disconnecting the batteries is a safe thing to do because some systems are even bypassing the switches.

Because it cools the freezer first- if the freezer is using all the available cooling- there is not much left for the fridge.

we used to be on a houseboat at Lake Powell, Utah. In mid-July 110+ degrees outside - the absorbing fridge could keep the freezer mostly frozen - but the fridge was way too warm. By mid-late August, the fridge was at the proper temp (barely). Never had any complaints about the fridge from people in May, June, September or October… go figure😎

My point… if it is really hot outside - just get by- when it cools down the fridge will be working as well as they work.

The year we re-did the houseboat kitchen and put in residential fridges- everyone in July & August said “how nice to have fridges that work great” everyone on in May, June, Sept &Oct said “ nice pretty cabinets”.

Good Luck

Someone with more knowledge than I, may chime in. I was thinking the ISB, ISC, ISL engines were electronic and not mechanical injected engines. I have only experienced the older mechanical C8.3.

I am of the understanding King made two units a 2500 cruise only model and the 2600 cruise and throttle control.

11 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Wonder if there is a way to use one of the ABS wheel sensors and use a wire tracer and trace it back to the module?

Might be tough to do, but may have to try. Box 4 has a couple relays and fuses for the ABS circuit, the ABS blink code, ABS light, ABS Pump. The Blink Code fuse (in Bx 4) blows as soon as the ignition is turned on. I am now going to pull all the fuses and relays related to the ABS until the light goes out. then one by one put them back in and see what part of the circuit should be blowing the fuse. Or I could put a solid wire in place of the fuse and then look for the smoke....

2 hours ago, FlynPirate said:

So when you store your rig you just disconnect the batteries?

Belay that advice. You have the intellitec MPX system. When you use the disconnect switch, you also take down the MPX. Then, you HOPE when it reboots that all will be well. There is a CPU and at least 5 or modules. Memory is fuzzy, but you might also have two salesman solenoid. Frank leaves his ON. I bypassed mine sind my MPX is much simpler. BUT I leave power on and never take it down, The salesman switch is also handy for the times that the system gets a little funky…like the modules have lost their handshake. You can safely reboot the system, from the inside, by using the Battery Cutoff.

Any Dynasty and above from circa 2005 with the Intellitec MPX…is NOT, we believe, a good candidate for jumpering the Batt Cut off solenoid. Frank and I have power at storage and we actually bypass the Big Boy BIRD/Boost solenoid and that way the contacts don’t get pitted. When in use, we remove the Jumper. An automotive Jumper cable works as well between the Positives. Pull one of the control wires to the Big Boy. It disengages and the contacts stay cleaner and the coil is not under load.

Monaco upgraded the MH exponentially and the simpler ones did not have the BIRD systems. Read the manual and understand and continue to ask questions.

21 hours ago, PeterSchweizer said:

On my 04 Cayman there is a 4" x 4" black box labled Monaco 4 with several ABS fuses in it. It is located in the battery bay passenger side behind the rear wheels. The ABS light always stayed on the 10 amp fuse in that box keep blowing which caused the light to come on. Traced it to a 2 chafed wires that where shorting out against each other . Possibly from a blown tire damaging the wire bundle - by prev owners as the battery compartment showed evidence of repaired damage. It was FUN tracing it!

Thank you, Sounds like we may have the same wiring. This will at least give me direction. Now I will go at it one wheel at a time! This gives me a glimmer of hope, and possibly a lot more work.. But Thank you very much for taking a few minutes to post this info! I will post my findings.. Still I would like to find this phantom board that people speak of and schematic concur.

30 minutes ago, Boyd B. said:

Thank you, Sounds like we may have the same wiring. This will at least give me direction. Now I will go at it one wheel at a time! This gives me a glimmer of hope, and possibly a lot more work.. But Thank you very much for taking a few minutes to post this info! I will post my findings.. Still I would like to find this phantom board that people speak of and schematic concur.

In the sites Files there should be a cayman, HR... wiring diagrams that I down loaded several years ago.

My Pneumatic air cylinder is doing the same thing, But is different then this one. Has anyone had a Norgren SPUSB/020E0040 ?

I have mine out and I think I’m going to have to have someone else rebuild it. Ends are sealed on.

2004 Monaco Executive

Keep me posted.. and I’ll let you know if I find anything…

thanks!

I suspect I have transmission fluid cross over into my hydraulic oil, via the hydraulic pump seal & PTO, per some earlier posts. I assume that means the couple between the PTO and the hydraulic pump shaft has some level of pressurized transmission fluid in this connection.

When I unbolt my hydraulic pump off the Allison PTO, will it leak out a lot of transmission ATF (fluid) over time?
Can I remove the hydraulic pump for several days to have seal and pump inspected at a hydraulic shop without dripping out several quarts of ATF?

New cooler shows up this week.

Unfortunately not. They're backed up about a month. Managed to get it into Westlie Truck though and the pump is out now.

Looks like finding the seal will be the hard part. If anyone has info on where to find a shaft seal for a pump with these numbers please let me know asap. We're stuck here til it's fixed:

151KB8BX / 194KX16X2-RC19.5