[PDF] UfV - Madison. ofer Sailing Clu. Hoofer Badger Tech Sailing Manual

1 UfV - Madison ofer Sailing Clu Hoofer Badger Tech Sailing Manual2 Hoofer Sailing Club Badger Tech Manual Many parts of...

ofer Sailing Clu UfV - Madison

Hoofer Badger Tech Sailing Manual

Hoofer Sailing Club Badger Tech Manual

Many parts of this manual were written over the years. This edition shows the collective talents of many individuals, and though they may no longer be members of the club, their ideas and contirbutions continue to be seen and felt.

ORIGINAL 1964 by Tom Hall and Jack Klein.

Revised 1967 by Max Legally. Revised 1968 by Tom Atwell, Karen Christiansen, Ed Eloranta. Illustrations by Sandy Sell. Revised 1971 by George Cowan and John La Tocha with assistance from Myron Cramer and Patrick Healy Revised 1978 by Alan L. Yatvin with assistance from William T. Whalen and Bart S. Hersko, revised illustrations by Alan L. Yatvin. Revised 1982 by Bruce Yatvin and Dierk Polzin with assistance from Elaine Seitz. Revised 1983 by Bruce Yatvin Revised 1988 by Steve Beringer (text and illustrations). Revised 1992 by Brian Bartel and Kim Winburn with assitancefrom Bob Kachelek. Revised June, 1993. Landings modified to "close-reach." Revised July, 1993 related to Club Organization information. Revised 1998 by Mamie Manske with assistance from Jim Rogers, Anita Bersie and Brandon Schwartz.

TABLE OF CONTENTS Hoofers Club .......................................................................................... 1 Welcome! ................................................................................................ 2 Introduction to the Badger Tech........................................................ 3 What Makes it 00? .............................................................................. 5 Wind Clock

Rigging .................................................................................................... 9 Knots

Safety ...................................................................................................... 11 Controlling the Tech........................................................................... 12 Leaving the Pier Straight Course Sailing

Changing Direction............................................................................. 14 Tiller Control Sail Adjustment Tacking/Coming About Jibing

Safety Position ...................................................................................... 22 Landing at the Pier............................................................................... 23 Close-Reach Landings In Irons Landings

Righting a Tech..................................................................................... 25 Right of Way Rules ............................................................................... 27 Opposite Tack Same Tack Rules Rounding Marks Over Early at the Start Touching a Mark What.to do if a Foul Occurs Sound Signal Starting System

Additional Sailing Tips ...................................................................... .3l Glossary .................................................................................................. 36 Appendix................................................................................................. 41 Exercises & Drills Racing Suggested Reading

Index ......................................................................................................... 45

Badger Tech Manual

Contents

HOOFER CLUB ORGANL

TION

The Hoofer Sailing Club of the Wisconsin Union is run by an elected Commodore and Vice-Commodore, and a Board of Captains selected by the Commodore for a term that runs concurrent with that of the Commodore. The Board of Captains has the executive, legislative, and judicial powers of the Sailing Club. Club members are welcomed and encouraged to attend the Board of Captains (BOC) meetings. The purpose of the Hoofer Sailing Club "shall be to promote sailing at the University of Wisconsin by providing the organization, equipment, instruction and financing necessary to encourage recreational and competitive sailing. " The Hoofer Sailing Club is one of seven independent Hoofer clubs and was formed in 1939. The others are Hoofer Riding, Mountaineering, Gliding, Outing, Scuba, and Ski and Snowboard clubs. Common interests are handled through the Hoofer Council which consists of a representative from each ofthe Hoofer clubs and elected officers of the Council. Hoofers is part of Wisconsin Union Directorate, the student programming board of the Wisconsin Union.

Membership and Dues Membership fees are determined by the Board of Captains to reflect the current costs of Hoofer Sailing Club operations. There is no additional charge for instruction or for participation in interclub races and continues to be a great deal! The Hoofer Sailing Club does require work hours for each member each year as determined by the current Board of Captains. These can be done anytime by checking the work hours bulletin board, checking at the boathouse, or coming to a work party. It is mandatory that the person checking out the boat have the appropriate ratings to sail the boat in the weather condition that he/she is going out in. All sailing crafts must be checked out through the Boathouse before going out and checked in immediately after returning. Members may be required to pay for damages beyond normal wear and tear, or for damage due to negligence and members must follow current Hoofer Sailing Club policies and procedures. Demonstration of incompetence may result in the loss of ratings and/or the assessment of damage charges. Violations of Hoofer Sailing Club rules may result in temporary or permanent suspension of membership privileges.

Instruction Instructors are under the supervision ofthe Head Instructor. Instructors are selected and their policies are set by the Education Committee. Instructors are qualified to give tests, give ratings, and remove ratings. Concerns regarding ratings may be directed to your instructor and/or the Head Instructor:

Badger Tech Manual

Hoofers Club

Welcome to the

ooter Sailing Club!

The Hoofer Sailing Club offers various fleets of boats which Hoofer members and their family/friends can learn to sail. As a new member of Hoofers, the first boat you will receive instruction on is the Hoofer Badger Tech Dinghy or "Tech". It is twelve feet long, slightly less than six feet wide, and roughly double the proportions ofa bathtub. The Tech has an 18 foot tall mast, 75 square feet of sail, weighs 240 pounds fully rigged and has a top speed of8 knots (about 9 m.p.h.). The intent of this manual is to introduce you to sailing the Hoofer Badger Tech and familiarize you with both theoretical and practical elements of sailing at Hoofers. Included within this manual is rigging the Hoofer Badger Tech, controlling the Tech, some sailing right of way rules and safety precautions to take before and during your sail. Ifreviewed both before and after your first couple Tech lessons you should be able to pick up the sport and earn your Hoofer tech ratings. It is important to remember to practice as often as possible as you begin to sail because experience will be valuable in the future when learning to sail other Hoofer boats. Hoofers provides beginning sailors with opportunities to practice sailing through its daily instruction, clinics and tech racing which is offered every Wednesday and Friday evening. Inquire about the Hoofer Badger Tech Racing Manual at the Hoofer boathouse. Mastery of sailing the Hoofer Tech is the key to successfully sailing more advanced Hoofer boats as well as boats throughout the sailing world!

Badger Tech Manual

The Hoofer Sailing Club

Welcome!

TH BADGER TECH Even as simple a craft as the Badger Tech Dinghy (Fig. 1) has a formidable number of parts which you should become familiar with. Three parts you will need to be most familiar with when you begin sailing are the sheet, the hiking stick (also known as the tiller extension), and the telltale. The hiking stick is-the handle with which you steer the boat that swivels about the end of the tiller. The tiller is attached to and controls the rudder. The rudder utilizes the resistance of the water to provide the turning force for the boat. When sailing, you can hold the hiking stick anywhere along its length in order to make a comfortable connection between you and the tiller. The sheet is not the sail. It is the line (rope) with which you control the sail. Trimming (pulling) in on the sheet will bring the sail closer to the center ofthe boat. Easing (letting the sheet out) will allow the sail to swing in the direction that the wind blows it. The telltale is a short length of string or yarn tied to the wire side-stay or shroud. The purpose of the telltale is to indicate the direction the wind is blowing so it is a good idea to refer to it often when sailing. As you sit in the boat, with the hiking stick in one hand and the sheet in the other, you will-be sitting on the side of the boat (gunwale, pronounced "gunnel") hiking out to keep the boat level or on a very light wind day on the thwart (seat). The force of the wind against the sail tends to make the boat tip or heel. To counteract this heeling you must hook your feet under the hiking strap and extend your body out over the water .. Even in circ*mstances where you may be able to hold the tiller directly, you will find that it is easier to control the tiller by sliding your hand down and holding the hiking stick close to its joint with the tiller. It is advisable for you to become accustomed to using the hiking stick at all times.. even when you are not hiking out. This will give you faster and more efficient control, plus eliminate the possibility of tangling the dangling hiking stick in the sheet. In heavy winds the boom vang is very important because on reaches and runs it stops the boom from lifting. This lifting destroys the sail shape and reduces the sail area exposed to the wind. One author on dinghy racing claims a 20 percent loss in power without a boom vang.

Badger Tech Manual

Introduction

Mast

FIGURE 1- THE BADGER TErn Head

alya~d

w.H 1oiI-........-F mstay

Tack

1IiiioI.._ _.........1!.I'i

Clew Foot

HiJcing Stick

Badger Tech Manual

Introduction

WEAT MAKES IT GO? Figure 2

Direction of Boa. t

In brief, a sailboat gets its power from the forces of air moving over the curved shape of a sail. Downwind, it is easiest to think of a sailboat getting its power from the wind "pushing" on the boat and the sails. While not exactly correct, this model (fig. 2) predicts most of the forces on the boat. Upwind, a sailboat is "pulled" along by the wind. A properly trimmed (adjusted) sail assumes a shape similar to the wing of an airplane and acts as an airfoil in a very similar way. The lift provided by the sail actually is derived from the change in direction of the air as it flows over the curve of the sail. Notice that all of the sails in this booklet are drawn as curves. When wind hits the mast, some air flows to the windward side of the sail, and some to the leeward side. If the sail is properly trimmed, the air will be deflected and will travel in a different direction when it leaves the sail. The deflection of the air constitutes an acceleration and as the air is accelerated in one direction, the boat (and ourselves in it!) are accelerated in the opposite direction. It turns out that the direction the wind pushes our sailboat is not along the centerline of the boat but at a slight angle (fig. 3 below). Ifwe traveled in the direction of the arrow, we would not make much progress in the upwind direction. We need a way to prevent our boat from traveling sideways or "sideslipping." This anti-slip mechanism is the centerboard. The centerboard is simply a blade (or in some boats, a "foil") which extends beneath the boat to keep it from traveling sideways too much. Because water is so much denser than air, the centerboard can be relatively small (compared to the sail) and very efficient. If you leave the dock and seem to be going sideways more than forward, make sure that your centerboard is down all the way. If we look at the water passing the centerboard instead of the centerboard passing through the water we can see how it works to prevent sideslip through the water in fig 2. Figure 3 Resultant Force

Direction of voTater l'noV'ing past c:en terboard

High Pressure

Badger Tech Manual

What Makes it Cio?

Besides learning the tenns for the parts of the boat, you should also learn the general sailing tenns represented in fig. 4. The right side of the boat is called the starboard side (shaded side in the diagrams); the left side is the port side. If the boat is sailing so that the wind first crosses the starboard side, the boat is sailing on a starboard tack. Similarly, if the wind first crosses the port side, the boat is sailing on a port tack. Except for when the boat is sailing by the lee the sail is always on the opposite side of the windsource, so that a boat on starboard tack has its sail on the port side of the boat. A few other tenns you will hear mentioned are pinching, footing, feathering, and broaching. Pinching is trying to sail higher into the wind than close hauled; sailing lower is called footing. In heavy air when close hauled; excessive heeling should be avoided by heading up gently in the puffs; as the puff passes, the boat can smoothly fall off to its proper course. When done as a smooth, continuous operation, this is known as feathering. Broaching is allowing the boat to head up immediately after the jibe, usually involves excessive heeling and may result in a capsize. Figure 4 Bow Wind

Windwaxd side

Note: Where it will be helpfuL the starboaxd sides of the diagram boats will be shaded.

Wind Wind

This boat is: 1. Heading up 2. Turning into the wind 3. Turning closer to the wind 4. Luffing up

This boat is: 1. Heading downwind 2. Turning away from the wind 3. Falling: off 4. Bearing off 5. Bearing away

Boat A

Badger Tech Manual

VVhatMakesit(]o?

Wind Clock An easy way to remember where your sail should be set is by remembering the wind clock pictured in figure 5. Imagine the face of a clock on the surface of the water with the wind always blowing from 12 O'clock to 6 O'clock. It is obvious that a boat can sail if the wind is coming from directly behind it, since then the wind pushes the boat along. In our diagram, the boat would then be sailing towards 6 O'clock. But it is also possible for the boat to sail in other directions against the force which drives it, but only at angles to it. A Tech dinghy can point no higher than about 40 degrees into the wind. For example, when your boat is facing directly at 12 O'clock (directly into the wind), you won't be able to sail at all, here you are in irons. When you are in irons you are in an unsailable sector between 11 O'clock and 1 O'clock which is called the eye 6fthe wind. To get out ofirons keep your sail luffing, hold your tiller in the center of the boat and allow the wind to blow you backwards or until you can catch some wind and get forward motion. Another way to get out of irons is to backwind your sail by holding the boom out perpendicular to the wind and holding the tiller straight in the center of the boat allowing the wind to push you backwards. Once you have reverse motion, push the tiller in the direction that you want the bow to turn and you will turn that way. Once angled away from "12 O'clock" you can trim your sail in. At best, you can sail either towards 1 O'clock or 11 O'clock. If you try to sail higher than 1 or 11 O'clock the pressure causes the sail to luff. When you are sailing towards either 1 or 11 O'clock you are said to be sailing close hauled, because the sail is hauled in "close to the boat." As you fall off to 2 or 10 O'clock, you must also let the sail out slightly by easing the sheet where you will be on a close reach. Falling offmore and again easing the sheet brings you to 3 or 9 O'clock where you are on beam reach or sailing perpendicular to the wind. When sailing below a beam reach you are on a broad reach. When sailing directly down wind (6 O'clock) your boat is running and your sail should be all the way out. Remember that every time you fall off, you must also ease your sheet. You should study the wind clock paying particular attention to the position of the sails. The ideas discussed in the section on sailing a straight course apply to all the boats shown in fig. 5 except the two that are sailing close-hauled.

Badger Tech Manual

Wind Clock

Figure 5

Wind Clock 12 Starboard tack courses

Eye of the wind

Port tack courses

1 Close Hauled

Close Hauled-

./ ./ ./ ./

In Irons / I

9 I ./ ~~~~~~~-----------~./ Beam

././ ./

.....................-..--Reach

8 Broad Reach

4 Broad Reach

Badger Tech Manual

Wind Clock

RIGG1NG T E TECH The first thing to do is to choose a good boat. Some of the techs have missing equipment or need to be repaired so be sure the tech has a working hiking stick and a correctly tied boom vang. Check the boat over for anything that might cause a problem; missing cleats, gaping holes, missing mast, etc. Don't use any boats that have a secured sign on them which should be attached to the mast just below eye level. Once you've picked out a tech, you can get it ready by following three sets of three steps.

On Land 1 Put both plugs in the back of the boat; one on the inside, one on the outside. 2 Untie the knot in the mainsheet and be sure the line can run freely through the pulleys. 3 Attach the sail. Unclip the halyard from the boom and rec1ip it to the head of the sail. The head of the sail is the only comer ofthe sail with a thick plastic plate attached to it. Raise the sail up about a foot while feeding the cord into the groove in the mast. Then clip the outhaul to the clew (the trailing comer of the sail). Leave the downhaul untied from tack (or attach the downhaulloosely by only using the very end of the downhaul).

Putting the boat in the water Get a partner for this and feel free to ask someone nearby. 1 Get a tech cart found in the middle of the tech boat area and pull the tech onto it. 2 Push it down the ramp and into the water, stem first. Be sure you don't push the cart off the end of the ramp. 3 Tie the tech to the pier with a bowline knot. Rule number one for knot tying: test the knot before you trust it! Give it a tug.

In the Water In this order! 1 Put in the rudder. When getting into the boat, enter on the bow straddling the mast first or enter on the side of the boat if you're larger. Be sure the rudder is put in underneath the traveler. This may be frustrating and take some time. 2 Raise the sail. Get back on the bow first, straddling the mast. If you haven't attached the downhaul yet, do so now, then tighten it. 3 Lower the centerboard. Get around the mast and into the boat first and then lower the centerboard. You're ready to go!

Badger rech Manual

Rigging

Why in this order? Most importantly, you want to put the centerboard down last. The purpose of the centerboard is to keep the boat from sideslipping and help it to move forward. You don't want to move forward while at the pier. The best and easiest way to cast off is to have someone on the pier untie you and give you a push. If you are more advanced, daring, or desperate, you can get back on the bow, straddle the mast, untie yourself, give yourself a push, and then hustle back into the boat and regain control as merciless Lake Mendota hurls your boat towards the jagged shoreline! The best advice is if you have a question about anYthing, ask an instructor. In heavy weather when there are waves it becomes more difficult to control the boat at the pier; .If the boat is not handled carefully in walking it down and around to the proper side of the pier for rigging, it will be damaged. Be very careful that the boat does not pound against the pier, and jfnecessary, ask someone to help you! Also, in heavy winds, allow as much length as possible when tying your painter to the pier. This will make the boat more stable while rigging it. Putting the rudder in is challenging especially if there are waves.

Knots Three important knots that you should be familiar with are the Clove-hitch on a cleat or cleat knot, the Clove-hitch on a post, and most importantly the Bowline. An overhand knot cannot be untied easily once it has been pulled tight. Tying improper knots can cause many potential problems. Please prevent these from occuring by tying "real" knots illustrated below in fig 6. If you're a visual leamer, ask someone to show you easy ways to tie these. Then, practice often and teach others. Figure 6

Clove Hitch on a. clea.t

Clove Hi tcr.. on a post

Bov-:rline

Badger Tech Manual

Rigging

SAFETY Now that you have the safety of your crew in your hands, how can you make sure you have a fun sail and make it back safely? Here are a few items that are useful in making your sail safe for yourself, your passengers and the craft you use.

Wear a llftjacket This is one of the two rules that are most useful for reducing drowning if you are in danger on the water. People with little body fat (including children) often get cold quickly and simply sink when they hit the water. Wear your llfijacket!

Stay with your crtJfi Unless someone is right there to help you off of your craft and into their rescue boat, stay with your boat at all times! Motorboats and lifesaving craft can see and avoid a larger object (such as a boat) much better than a smaller object (such as your little floating head). Also, the craft floats and is like wearing many lifejackets in that it will .. keep you above water.

Dress appropriately In the summer a pair of shorts, t-shirt, non-marking shoes with grip (such as light-weight tennis shoes), sunglasses, sun protection, a water bottle and a hat are items that you may need. If it is cooler, such as in rainy or windy weather and spring or fall, a windbreaker and dressing in layers is adviseable. Even on the hottest days, when there is a strong breeze one may become "chilled" out on the water. If you have any medications you might need to take while on the water (such as asthma meds) get a waterproof container to bring them along in.

Additional stJ/ety tips Here are a few more helpful hints on safety: - Know you equipment and how to use it safely and effectively. - Practice, practice, practice! - Check the weather forecast bEfore you go out. - Educate your crew on that they need to do and when. (Going over when to duck their heads is particularly useful.) .

Remember...... . When people drown they often do so because they sink in the water. To reduce this from happening where a snug, quality llfijacket and stay with your cr~ft always! Sound simple? It is.

Badger Tech Manual

Safety

CONTROLL1NG 1 E TECH

Figure 7

Leaving the Pier After raising your sail, the boat should be on the leeward side of the pier, in irons (pointing towards the wind), and as close to the end of the pier as possible (fig. 7). To leave the pier you have to "back out of irons". Backing a boat is like driving your car backwards because you have to do things opposite what you would do going forward. When you are sailing forward, a motion of the tiller in one direction will cause the bow to tum in the opposite direction. However, when going backward, hold the tiller dver to the same side as you want the bow to go. More simply, if the boat isn't going in the direction you'd like it to go, tum the tiller in the other direction. While steering backward, let the sheet hang loose (see above), keep the tiller centered until you have backed far enough so that you won't hit any other boats when you swing your boat around and go forward. When you have backed far enough away from the pier, push the tiller over hard in the direction that you want the bow to tum and wait until the bow has turned approximately 45 degrees from the wind (fig. 8), center the tiller again and sheet in until the luffing ofthe sail stops. lfthe tiller is brought back properly, and the sail is trimmed properly you will be sailing! Figure 8 Wind

1. To back ou t of irons, push the tiller in the direction that you want the bow to go. Allow the sail to hang freely. 2. Drift backwards until the bow has swung through an arc: of at least 45° from. the wind. 3. Pull the tiller am.idships, sheet in and sail a way.

Badger Tech Manual

Controlling the Tech

Straight Course Sailing The first step once getting on the water is to choose your destination (non-moving, distant object is best) and sail towards it. Now you need to figure out which direction the wind is coming from and adjust your sail trim. If you let the sheet run out (boat A fig.9 ) the wind will hit both sides ofthe sail with equal force causing it to flap or 11I)f. The wind will not push the boat forward at this point. As you pull the sheet in, the boat will move forward. Continuing to pull the sheet in will cause more of the sail to fill (boat B, fig. 9) until the whole sail is filled and there is no luffing (boat C, fig. 9). At this point you will be able to achieve maximum speed. If you pull the sheet in even further (boat D, fig. 9) the wind will not flow as fast around the curved sail, and the forward thrust from the wind will be decreased. Once your boat is moving it is very important to ,keep it moving in a straight line, even while adjusting sails. To accomplish this, make sure that the tiller is always pointing directly towards your mast. It is also helpful to continue sailing towards your destination. This will allow you to watch your sail and still have a reference point on land to help keep you sailing in a straight line. While you are sailing in a straight direction, it will be necessary to check the sail cften to see that you are getting the maximum force of the wind. If the sail is full you have no way knowing whether it is too tight as in boat D,in fig. 9. Therefore, you must run a sail check by easing the sheet out until the sail begins to luff then trimming the sail in until the hjfingjust steps. Now your sail is set properly for the direction you are heading. When you are sailing downwind the sail will not luff no matter how far out it goes. In this case it should be left as far out as possible; when in doubt, let it out. It will be roughly perpendicular to the boat to get the maximum force of the wind. An important fact to remember is that whenever you alter your course, you must also alter your sail trim. Figure 9

Desired Direction • •n

..... ,:===:L. ........ ......... , 'u uo

•••••

.... .. ,,,.. ,.. .. I •• 'a' ,., ,I•••• I ••

A Sail completely luffing

B Sail is part full. part luffin~

Badger Tech Manual

C Sail completely full fur best sailing

D Sail Pulled in too Tightly

Controlling the Tech

C' 'ANG1NG D1RECTION Tiller control

Steering the tech is done with the hiking stick. When you pull the hiking stick the tiller is also pulled. Refer to the diagram. If you are sitting on the starboard side of the tech and pull the tiller towards yourself, the tech will tum towards the port. If you are sitting on the port side ofthe tech and pull the tiller towards yourself, the tech will tum towards the starboard. If you push the tiller towards the port side, the tech will tum towards the starboard.

Tiller moved

Tech turns

starboard port

port starboard

Sail AtJjustment When sailing upwind, or heading up, the sail wil11uff and will need to be trimmed in. Trim the sail just until it stops luffing. Sailing downwind the sail should be let out further. This is termed/ailing cj/or heading down. An easy way to remember sail adjustment is by the phrase Down & Out, up & In. As you fall off (head down), you let your sail out. As you head up, you trim your sail in.

Tacking Tacking is turning from close~hauled on one tack to close-hauled on the other as the bow passes through the head of the wind. It is also referred to as coming about. Tacking involves crossing the "unsailable" eye-of-the-wind between eleven and one 0' clock. Inside this sector the sail will only luff and nothing will stop the luff or fill the sail, hence one would be in-irons. Since the tech cannot derive any useful power from an unfilled and luffing sail, the most the tech will do is drift. The object of tacking is to tum the boat wlo going into irons, so you will need to do it with speed. To tack you want to follow these steps: 1 - sail a close-hauled course with good speed.' 2 - alert your crew by announcing "Ready about?" followed by the crew's response of "Ready'" 3 - push the tiller far away from you hard and announcing "Hard-a-leel" 4 - duck under the boom and switch sides just as the sail crosses. 5 - straighten the tiller as soon as you are on a new course. 6 - switch hands holding the tiller & mainsheet and sit on the other side of the tech 7 - trim in the sail just so it stops luffing.

Badger Tech Manual

Changing Direction

Coming about Coming about is a maneuver used to change directions across the wind source; specifically, from close hauled on one tack (port or starboard) to close hauled on the other, (fig. 10). Tacking involves crossing the "unsailable" eye-of-the-wind between 11 and 1 O'clock. Inside this area the sail will only luff and there is nothing you can do to fill the sail except tum out of it. Since your boat caooot get any useful power from a luffing sail, the most your boat will do in the eye-of-the-wind is drift. The starting point for a come about is normally a close hauled course. After sailing to a close hauled course, spot on a distant shore where your boat will be aimed when you are done (which should be about 90 degrees from your close hauled course). As you prepare to come about you alert your crew by saying "Ready about?". When the crew replies "ready", push the tiller away from you (which will tum the boat sharply into the wind) and shout "Hard-a-lee" indicating that the boat is presently in the process of coming about as the boom swings above your heads (as you duck your heads). The boat coasts in an arc through the eye ofthe wind, putting your boat on the opposite tack. If you get confused, check to see if you are now aiming towards the spot you looked at. During the come about you will need to switch steering and sheet hands. When sailing on a starboard tack close-hauled you will be holding the sheet in your right hand (hand closest to the bow) and the hiking stick in you left (hand closest to the stem). Correspondingly, when on a close-hauled port tack course yo~ will have the sheet in· your left hand and the hiking stick in your right. Your instructor will show you a few easy ways of changing hands when he/she demonstrates the corne about to you. Remember, the mainsheet is your gas pedal and the tiller extension/hiking stick is your steering wheel. Never let go of the "steering wheel" while driving. It is ok to let go of the gas pedal (mainsheet) if you must let go of something. In heavy weather where there are waves, when coming about, be sure that the boat has enough forward momentum to carry it through the eye of the wind. Watch for a lull in the waves and tack. If a wave hits the boat just as you are tacking, it may stop the boat in irons before you coast over to the new tack.

Sailing Close-Hauled Since you can't sail the boat directly into the wind, you may be wondering how boat A in fig. 10 can reach its destination. To sail upwind, sailors use a technique called tacking - zigzagging upwind (see boat B, fig. 10). Clearly the boat which sails closest to the wind (close-hauled) will reach its destination quickest. For instance, in fig. 10, boat C, on a beam reach (actually slightly above it), will reach its destination, but it will take much longer than boat B which is close-hauled. When sailing close-hauled, the sail should be pulled in as far as possible and the boat should be steered as close to the wind as possible without the sailllAjfing. Ifit luffs (and while keeping the sail pulled all the way in), tum away from the wind until the sail just stops luffing.

Badger Tech Manual

Changing Direction

Figure 10

Wind

Destination •

Change tacks by executing a comeabout from a close hauled starboard tack to a close hauled port tack

Starboard tack close hauled

Wind

•

••

Wind Starboard tack

Destina Hon

close reach

dose reach

c. Badger Tech Manual

Changing Direction

Jibing Look again at the wind clock (fig. 5). The boats at the bottom ofthe clock are running or sailing directly downwind. The sail is out as far as possible to expose the maximum sail area to the wind since the wind is simply pushing the boat along. Suppose you are in boat #5, running on a port tack and you want to turn and sail on a starboard tack where the sail is on the other side of the boat and sailing in the same direction as boats #7, 8, 9, 10 or 11. One way to do this you would keep turning your boat closer to the wind on the port tack until you are close hauled (like boat #1) pulling in the sheet as you are tuming to keep the sail from luffing. Then when you have gained good momentum on the close hauled course you would execute a come about to get on the starboard tack (like boat #11). Finally on a starboard tack you would then steer your boat to your desired course and readjust the sail. Clearly, this is the long way around. It would be much simpler to turn in the direction boat #7 or 8 is going, and somehow get the sail on the other side of the boat, this is calledjibing. Before considering the jibe, it is a good idea to understand sailing by the lee. Suppose you are in boat A of fig. 11, and you want to tum to starboard (see arrow). If you just tum the boat in this direction you will end up like boat B. So now the sail is on the same side of the boat that the wind first crosses (the "wrong" side). Boat B is sailing by the lee. You don't want to stay on this position long because the boom is on the verge of coming acroos and it'd be wise to pay attention to that. Figure 11

Wind

Sailing by the lee

Badger Tech Manual

Changing Direction

Executing a controlledjibe is nothing more than following the sequence of boats A to C in fig. 12 while taking some precautions to make sure that the flopping of the sail from one side ofthe boat to the other is not too catastrophic. The oral conunand "Prepare tojibe!"is given to alert the crew of the up-coming maneuver (this warns them to keep their heads low and out ofthe way of the boom as it jibes across but tell beginners to "duck you heads" too). Move you weight towards the center ofthe boat. Steer downwind slowly with the tiller away from the sail until the telltale indicates that the wind has crossed the centerline of the boat. You are' now sailing by the lee. Keep turning slowly. Watch the sail which will let you know when it is ready to come flying across where the boom begins to rise and the leech starts to curve inward toward you. When you see these indications you warn your crew by shouting "Jibe HoI" and simultaneously give a smooth pull on the sheet and the sail will swing smoothly across. As the boom swings across, you must duck and allow the sheet to run freely through your hand until the sail is all the way out on the other side. If movement of the sail swinging across is hindered in any way the boat will heel violently and may capsize. At the same moment the tiller should be moved across quickly and brought back to the center, correcting your course back to a dead run and counteracting an inunediate tendency of the boat to spin up into the windsource. As you get better, you can do your light air jibes more quickly. Fig. 12 illustrates a boat close-hauled on a starboard tack changing its course slowly until it is running before the wind on a starboard tack It then shows the boat changing to a port tack run by jibing. Figure 12

Sailing by The Lee

Move your tiller enough to take you a few degrees off a dead run course. Sheet in the sail half way. "Pre""are to Jibe" ~ .. .,L.......Running

"Jibe Ho"

Watch your telltale so that you will know when you are on a dead run again

Wind catches lee side of sail. At this point you nlust: 1. Let the sheet slip freely through your hand so that the wind can take the sail ~ ')Iray- aut to the other side. 2. Correct course back to a dead run.

Beanl Reach

Close Hauled Starboard Tack

Wind Note: It is inlportant to nlaintain proper trinl of the sail between or during execution of the above nlaneuver.

Badger Tech Manual

Changing Direction

In heavy winds your boat may insist on heading up and heeling wnen you try a controlled jibe. In that case you execute ajlying jibe. A flying jibe is simply allowing your boom and sail to swing across the boat while not sheeting in at any point. Many people mistakenly equate a flying jibe with an uncontrolled jibe. An uncontroUedjibe is ajibe done by accident. Aj/yingjibe is really the sc.fest way you can jibe in heavy air. One important aspect in jibing in heavy winds is the idea that you must be going as fast as possible when you attempt thejibe. If you are going downwind at 15 mph in a 15 mph wind, then the relative wind you feel is zero and there will be no force on the sail. On the other hand if you slow down to 5 mph, then the wind you feel is the same as it would be if you were tied stem first to a dock in a 10 mph wind and tried to pull the sail across. This means you want to have the sail at maximum power (out if jibing) and you might consider raising the centerboard partway to reduce drag. The second important aspect is afirm control of the boat's direction. This means having the centerboard about one-fourth of the way down to insure the boat's response to your tiller movements. Almost everything else is the same as a controlled jibe except you do not trim the sail. Sail by the lee until the wind is behind the sail and starts to swing it across. Now DUCK and reverse the tiller past amidships to make the boat start turning in the opposite direction. This tiller action prevents the boat from heading up once the boom has stopped. Sometimes when you are sailing by the lee but can't quite get the boom to jibe, a small jerk on the sheet can help to initiate the movement (fig. 13). The basic three in heavy windjibing: keep you sail all the way out, place your weight more on the center cfthe boat, reverse the tiller direction the moment the boom swings across.

Badger Tech Manual

Changing Direction

Figure 13

Heavy Wind

Con trolled jibe does not work even though the tiller is turned in the correct direction

Flying jibe is done with the cen terboard down part way fur control. Wait un til you are going as fast as you can.

Sail by the lee un til wind just starts to get behind the sail and it begins to come across.

Oops ! Forgot to bring the tiller across to com pensa te fur the boom coming across.

Duck and reverse the tiller to make the boat start turning in the other direction.

When boom stops, boat heads up the amount you compensate fur.

Badger Tech Manual

Changing Direction

Fig. 14 shows a boat on a port tack, beam reach (position 1). As the boat moves forward, it also heads up. In position 2 the boat has trimmed in its sail and is now on a close reach. Following the boat through all positions, we see how it tacks onto starboard tack (position 4) by passing its bow through the eye of the wind. We also see it fall off from close hauled (4) to a close reach (5), to a beam reach (6), to a broad reach (7), to a run (8), and then jibe over onto port tack again (9) and sail off in its original direction on a beam reach (11). Figure 14

Wind

6. Beam Reach

4. The boat has nt'.1Wcome a.bout.

9. The boat ha.s nCIW jibed. " 2. Close Reach

1. Beam Reach

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11. Beam Reach

Changing Direction

Wind

6. Bum Reach

4. The boat has 'flOW come a.bout.

9. The boa.t has 'flOW jibed.

1. Beam Reach

11. Beam Rea.ch

Figure 12

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TYPOSITION

When you want to take a safe break from sailing while you are out on the water the safety position is one way you can do it. The safety position is shown in the diagram below (fig. 15). Initially sail an upwind course, letting the sail all the way out until the boat stops, then push the tiller towards the sail and move your weight (sitting is just fine) to the side of the boat with the sail. Now your sail, tiller and weight are all on the same side and you don't need to hike out. Simply sit comfortably so the boat just heels a little. You are now in the safety positionl In this position your sail will luff but your boat will not try to tum. You can then easily talk to other sailors or your instructor. You can also let go of the rudder and make whatever adjustment you might need to your boat.

Figure 15

as sail, and tiller

Badger Tech Manual

In Irons Landings This technique is useful when piers are located very close together. The idea is to coast the boat toward the landing object (pier or buoy), with the sail completely lUffing and the wind acting to slow the boat down. This means that you should be coasting directly into the wind, in irons. Remember the telltales indicate the wind direction, and also if your sail is luffing (as it should be), it will also tell you where the wind is. Since you don't want the wind to stop your boat before you reach the pier, a successful landing takes planning. Consider the boat in fig. 17A. The skipper sails with a properly trimmed sail and then turns the boat sharply into the wind. Depending on the force of the wind and the size of the waves, the boat coasts about 20~30 feet (roughly two and a halfboat lengths). In making a good landing (fig. 17B), a skipper sails the boat to a spot about 3 boat lengths directly downwind of the spot on the pier where he/she wants to land. Then the skipper turns the boat sharply into the wind until it is coasting upwind toward the chosen landing place. The skipper in fig. 17C has been a little too cautious and sailed to a spot more than 3 boat lengths from the pier. Consequently, the boat will be stalled in the water several feet away from the pier. He/she must then sail away from the pier and make another attempt at landing. However, this mistake is greatly preferred to the mistake made by the skipper in fig. 17D, who sailed to a spot much closer to the pier than 3 boat lengths. When this boat reaches the pier, it still has considerable momentum, and it "bombs" the pier, possibly causing considerable damage to the boat, other boats, and the pier itself. It should be remembered that 3 boat lengths is merely a rule of thumb to guide you. On windier days this distance will be too great, while on light wind days you may glide further than 3 boat lengths. As you gain experience you will find that you will be able to estimate the proper distance fairly well. Figure 17

Wind

Deshe~

Wind

• • C

Too Bold

landinG place . Boat lengths I I

&.·.-9

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Landings

RIGHllNG A lECH A subject which is important to learn in sailing is righting a boat.There are two situations that may occur during a sail afterwhich the skipper/crew will need to right the boat. .

Capsizing When a boat cnpsizes, it tips over so that one of the sides of the boat is completely in the water. Fig. 18C shows a skipper righting a tech. After capsizing, he/she swims around to the "bottom" side of the boat and is now pulling down on the centerboard. Many times one cannot right the tech be simply pulling down on it however. One can climb and stand on top of the centerboard while holding on to the side of the tech as the boat slowly begins to right itself. If you were sailing with the centerboard "up", or ifit happened to fall back into the boat when you capsized (fig. 18D), you will have to move it to the "down" position in order to get enough leverage to right the boat. There is a fingerhold in the centerboard, so you can pull the board out form the "bottom" side ofthe boat. If you were sailing with the centerboard "up", you will have to swim around to the "top" side of the boat and uncleat it.

Turtling When a boat turtles, it is tipped over so that the mast is pointing to the bottom of the lake. If the boat has turned turtle one can right the boat in a similiar manner as when· the boat would capsize. However, if you are unable to get the centerboard in a position to right the boat, then loop the painter (or use the free end of the halyard, if available) around one of the sidestays and pull on it while standing on the other side of the boat. (fig. 18F) Once you have righted the boat, you may climb back in. Righting the boat is rather easy after learning good techniques. Getting in may be a more creative challenge, especially for those with less upper body strenth. To get in, go to the windward side of the boat and pull yourself in using the thwart or hiking strap as a handhold. Taking a rest once you right the tech while you hold onto the boat in the water is fine. Keep your lifejacket on, lower your shoulders in the water then with a strong kick pop out of the water, grab a hiking strap and plop yourselfin. Congratulation! Another useful technique is to take your painter, tie a bowline and set it nest to the side stay; then step onto it like a ladder and climb up. Ask your instructor for even more suggestions, they are used to it. The boat will have almost no water in it and you should be able to sail away without any help from the UW Rescue Service (Harvey). If you pick the leeward side, the boat may tip over on top of you and then you have to go through the whole procedure again. Badger Tech Manual

Righting a Tech

Figure 18

A Righting a Tech with the centerboard down. Centerboard

Cen terboard tied "down ll

Painter

Badger Tech Manual

Righting a Tech

RIGHTOFWAYRVLES The International Sailing Federation (ISAF) publishes rules for sailboat racing which the United States Sailing Association follows with a few prescriptions added. The rules are updated every four years coinciding with the Olympics, to reflect changes in the sport as well as suggestions from racers; The club has a few copies ofthe current rule book, however, a personal copy is a handy thing for a serious racer or racer in training to have. While reading these rules, keep in mind other sailors will be using them tactically. The US Sailing Association References are given in parentheses in case additional information is desired. The following rules apply when boats meet. The list is not complete, as there are many rules in the book. This tech racing manual includes the most commonly used rules, and should give you enough information to start racing. Different rules will apply when boats meet in different situations so read carefully and study the diagrams.

apposite Tack "When boats are on opposite tacks, a port tack boat shall keep clear (jf a starboard tack boat." (Section A, Rule 16) The tack your boat is on depends on which side oft.he boat the wind is coming over, and which side of the boat the sail lies on. A boat with the wind coming over the starboard side of the boat, and sail to the port side of the boat is considered the starboard tack boat. The starboard boat has the right-of-way over the port boat. The starboard boat should hail "starboard!" as a warning, but does not have to do so to be entitled to right-of-way.

Same Tack,

Overl~pped

"When boats are 011 the same tack and overlapped, a windward boat shall keep clear (jf a leeward boat". (Section A, Rule 11) First of all you must decide if an overlap exists between you and another boat. An imaginary line is drawn perpendicular to the centerline of your boat at the furthest aft point of the boat. Ifthis imaginary line is broken by another boat, or your boat breaks this line of another boat, an overlap has been established. The windward boat is the one closer to the source of the wind, and the leeward boat is the one further from the wind. The leeward boat has right-of-way over the windward boat.

Same Tack, Not Overl~pped "When boats are on the same tack and not overlapped, a boat clear astern shall keep dear (jf a boat clear ahead." (Section A, Rule 12) The clear ahead boat is the one that, when moving forward, is the boat further ahead and no overlap exists. The boat clear ahead as right-of-way over a boat clear astern.

Badger Tech Manual

Right of Way Rules

While Tacking "After a boat passes head to wind, she shall keep clear {;f other boats until she is on a close-hauled course. During that time rules 10,11, and 12 do not apply. Jftwo boats are silhject to this rule at the same time, the one on the other's port side shall keep clear." (Section A, Rule 13) In a nut shell, this rule means that a boat tacking needs to keep clear of boats on a steady course. Your tack is considered complete when your boat is once again on a sailable course (close-hauled tack). Before you tack you must check to make sure you have room to do so without interfering with another boat.

Same Tack, Proper Course "A boat that establishes a leeward overlap from clear astem within two {;f her hull lengths {;f a windward boat shall not sail above her pr(Jper course during that overlap while the boats are less than that distance apart, unless as a result she becomes clear astem." (Section B, Rule 17.1) "Except on a beat to windward, while a boat is less than two {;f her hull lengths from a leeward boat or a boat clear astern steering a course to leeward {;f her, she shall not sail below her pr(Jper course unless she jibes. " (Section B, Rule 17.2)

Rounding Marks (a) "When boats are overlapped bf.fore one {;fthem reaches the two-length zone, If the outside boat has right {;fway she shall give the inside boat room to pass the mark or obstruction, or If the inside boat has right {;fway the outside boat shall keep clear. Jfthey are still overlapped when one {;fthem reaches the two-length zone the outside boat's obligation continues even lfthe overlap is broken later. This rule does not apply lfthe outside boat is unable to give room when the overlap begins. " (h) "Jf a boat is clear ahead when she reaches the two-length zone, the boat clear astem shall keep clear even If an overlap is established lqter. Rule 10 does not apply. Jfthe boat clear ahead tacks, rule 13 applies and this rule no longer does." (c.) "Jfthere is reasonable doubt that a boat established or broke an overlap in time, it shall be presumed she did not." (Section C, Rule 18.2) When going around a mark, the boat with an inside overlap must be given room to make a clean rounding. No boat may hit the mark. The two-boat-Iength zone is an imaginary circle around the mark with a radius of two-boat lengths. This rule falls under rule 18 which has five separate sections to prescribe the situati~n. If you have more questions about when the rule applies, tacking around a mark or jibing around a mark you should refer to the Rule Book.

Badger Tech Manual

Right of Way Rules

Over Early at the Start "When at her starting signal any part fJf a boat's hull, crew, or equipment is on the course side fJfthe starting line, the boat shall sail completely to the pre~start side fJf the line bEfore starting." (Part 3, Rule 29.1) .

This rule says that no part of your boat may be over the starting line when the gun goes off. If you are over early you will have to go back and restart. There are some special rules the race committee may set about how you are to restart the race. Be sure to check with the race committee beforehand to find out what any starting penalties are in effect.

Touching A Mark "While racing, a boat shall not touch a starting mark bEfore starting, a mark that begins, bounds, or ends the leg fJfthe course on which she is sailing, or afinishing mark llfter finishing." (Part 3, Rule 31.1)

This rule simply says that you cannot touch, or hit any marks you are rounding on the course. If you touch a mark the penalty is one 360 degree tum (consecutive tack and jibe). One exception to this rule would be the starting line marks on the downwind leg of the course, double check with the race committee to see if the line is restricted or not before the race begins.

Propulsion '4Except when permitted in rule 42.3 or rule 45, a boat shall compete by llsing only the wind and water to increase, maintain, or decrease her 5peed. Her crew may alljust the trim fJ f sails and hull, and pel/orm other acts fJ/ seamanship, bllt shall not otherwise move their bodies to propel the boat." (Part 4, Rule 42.1)

The rules on propUlsion are quite specific about which actions are considered legal and which are not. Basically, you are not to propel your boat by anything but normal sailing maneuvers. A list of specifically banned actions include pumping, rocking, sculling, and repeated tacks and jibes unrelated to wind shifts or tactical considerations. If you are unsure of the legality of your actions, consult the Rule Book or an experienced racer. Most of these rules come from what is generally accepted and unaccepted behavior by racers and take some practice to recognize.

Badger Tech Manual

Right of Way Rules

What To Do If A Foul Occurs C4A boat that may have broken a rule of Part 2 while racing may take a penalty at the time of the incident. Her penalty shall be a 720 degree Turns Penalty unless the sailing instructions specify the use olthe Scoring Penalty or some other penalty. However, If she caused serious damage or gained signlficant advantage in the race or series hy her breach she shall retire." (Parl4, Rule 44.1) c4After getting well clear of other boats as soon tlfter the incident as possible, a boat takes a 720 degree Turns Penalty by promptly making two complete 360 degree turns (726) in the same direction, including two tacks and two jibes. When a boat takes the penalty at or near the finishing line, she shall return completely to the course side (jf the line bEfore finishing." (Part 4, Rule 44.2) The 720 degree tum penalty applies to rules broken like Starboard over Port, and the room at a mark rule. You may not use this penalty to excuse you from illegal means of propulsion or incorrect starting. Also remember that the penalty for touching a mark is only a 360 degree tum and not a 720 degree tum. If you fail to take a penalty and you were in the wrong in a protest situation, you may be disqualified from that race by the race committee or the protest committee after a hearing. If you think you might have been wrong, it's usually best to just spin your circles right away rather than get involved in a protest.

Sound Signal Starting System SIGNAL

SOUND

Warning Preparatory

3 long 2 long 1 long, 3 short I long 3 short 2 short 1 short 1 short 1 short 1 short 1 short 1 short 1 long

Countdown

Starting

Badger Tech Manual

11ME BEFORE S1ART 3 minutes 2 minutes 1 minute, 30 seconds 1 minute 30 seconds 20 seconds 10 seconds 5 seconds 4 seconds 3 seconds 2 seconds 1 second oseconds

Right of Way Rules

A DIIIONAL SA1L1NG 11PS Boat Trim The Techs are displacement dinghies and are greatly affected by the placement of the crew weight. In general, "sail the boat flat to sail it fast" is a phrase to live by. The Tech Dinghy is designed to sail best upwind with crew weight centered at the thwart and kept as close as possible to this point. , The Tech should be sailed flat in moderate to 'heavy breezes with a chop and with 0 50 to 10 heel under most other conditions. In maintaining proper hull trim, crew weight should be shifted smoothly so as not to disturb the motion of the boat. If the crew is light, it may prove best to pull up the centerboard as much as half way when going upwind in a heavy wind. This may seem foolish at first, but the resulting leeway will be more than made up for by the fact that the boat will keep moving and it will still be on its feet. ' Watch for puffs on the water ahead to anticipate hiking. Don't be afraid to use the hiking straps to get the crew weight out of the boat to counteract the force of the sail. Although flat is generally fast, an exception should be made during light air days. When the wind is light (0~5 mph), it is best to sit on the thwart on any point of sail, so the crew weight will lift the stem of the boat out of the water to reduce drag. Also it is best to heel 'the boat 10 to 15 degrees to leeward on upwind legs to keep the sail full. However, when running, sit forward of the thwart to lift the transom out of the water and heel the boat slightly to windward. When in this position, it is very easy to use a leg or foot to hold the centerboard up to decrease the resistance created by the centerboard. Only move back if the boat begins submarining in heavy wind and wa.ves. Surprisingly, you can steer the boat entirely without using the rudder by , controlling boat heel (especially in light winds). To tum upwind heel the boat to leeward; towards windward to fall off. Hull steering can make you a much faster sailor because there is less drag.

Steering There are a few general rules to steering which should be followed to increase you boat speed. First of all, steer as little as possible. Every time the tiller is moved it creates more drag on the boat which will slow the boat down. The better sailors on the course will only move the tiller a few inches away from the centerline except in a few cases when the boat is tacking, jibing or avoiding another boat. Once the proper position in the boat has been established, it is best to hold the hiking stick in front of your chest using only your index finger, thumb and wrist to move the tiller. This position works well in most conditions because it allows for small and sensitive movements of the tiller. It is also easier to use the tiller hand to help trim the sheet when the hiking stick is place in front of one's chest. With proper placement of body and hiking stick, all that is left to do is steer the boat around the course.

Badger Tech Manual

Sailing Tips

Anticipation is the key to proper steering techniques. Small adjustments of the tiller is all it takes when a change of conditions is anticipated. For example, if one notices the boats in front on the same upwind tack are heading up, an alert skipper will anticipate the same and will head up gradually so as to reduce the drag caused by a sharp tum of the rudder. Exaggerated movements of the tiller only require exaggerated counter movements of the tiller to compensate and soon a vicious cycle is started. When the weather starts to get rough, an underhand grip of the hiking stick will allow more control of a feisty tiller.

Sail Atljustment Alljusting the shape of the sail One of the most important factors in sailing fast, especially to windward is the shape of the sail. Look at the sail carefully and notice how performance is affected in different wind and wave conditions by changing the position and amount of draft (the bag or curvature of the sail). The draft can be adjusted mosrreadily on shore or on the water by using the downhaul and the outhaul. Tightening the downhaul moves the draft closer to the mast, flattening the sail and allowing the bo'at to sail closer to the wind. This will also improve performance in stronger winds with smooth water. Generally, the proper downhaul adjustment is somewhere between the point where horizontal wrinkles disappear and a vertical crease appears in the sail luff while beating to windward in moderate winds. The outhaul also controls the amount of draft and has a larger effect than does the downhaul on the power of the sail. Loosening the outhaul will increase power to drive the boat through large waves or keep it moving in light air, but it will also increase the heeling produced by the rig. At first, check the sails (particularly the outhaul adjustment) ofthe experienced racers as a guide for setting sails.

Alljusting the Trim (Jf The Sail The topic of sail trim in a Tech deals primarily with the mainsheet. The sheet should be eased in the puffs and trimmed in the lulls to maintain proper leach tension so as to keep the boat driving. In winds under five miles per hour or so, most experienced Tech sailors prefer to pull the sheet directly from the boom to be able to keep the boom well centered without excess leach tension. As you may remember from the beginning Tech class, the eptimum trim/or a sail occurs when it just steps h,jfing. The process for trimming the Tech sail is aided by a set of telltales which most of the Tech racing sails have. A telltale is a piece of yam which is placed on opposite sides of the luff of the sail (near the mast). These are devices for showing how efficiently the air is flowing over the sail. The telltales help illustrate proper sail trim for the crew of the boat. For maximum speed, both telltales should be streaming approximately straight back with perhaps a small amount of flapping in the windward one, depending on the wind and wave conditions. If the windward telltale starts to flutter or stall, it is Badger Tech Manual

Sailing Tips

indicating that the sail is beginning to luff. If however,· the leeward telltale begins to flutter or stall, it is indicating that the sail is over-trimmed, or the boat is bearing away from a close hauled course. In heavy weather with high waves, it becomes easy to "stall out" the boat by heading too far into the eye of the wind. The momentum of the waves hitting the bow from nearly dead ahead may destroy all forward momentum, putting you in irons. Avoid stalling out by NOT pinching.

lIpwind Sailing The telltales of the tech race sail make upwind sailing much easier. The same rules apply to racing as those learned in Tech lessons. When sailing to windward, the sail should be sheeted all the way in so that the boom is in no further than the aft leeward comer of the boat. Even though it may seem at first that by sheeting in harder than this the boat would be able to point higher, the Tech just does not perform well when pinched, and it will actually lose performance and speed. Trimming the sail should be done with the tiller when sailing upwind. When the windward telltale starts to flutter, (a sign of luffing) the boat should be headed down away from the wind. Conversely, if the leeward telltale is ~uttering or even hanging straight down, the boat should be .headed up into the wind. Keep in mind that in most cases, the tiller should only have to move a maximum of six inches either side of the centerline of the boat to correctly trim the sail. In puffy or moderate air (10-20 mph), the sail may have to be eased ofno keep the boat flat. Also remember that the conditions are always changing and that a good sailor is constantly adjusting the sails to meet the changing conditions.

Sailing downwind When sailing downwind the sail should be trimmed primarily by using the sheet line. It is often recommended to hold the sheet forward of the block on the centerboard trunk. This will allow for a better feel of the sail and thus quicker reactions to changing conditions. This also works well when sailing upwind in light air conditions. The basic idea when sailing a reach is to point the boat towards the next mark (buoy) and play the sheet line to correct the sail. When the windward telltale flutters, the sail is luffing and this time the sheet must be pulied in. When the .leeward telltale starts to flutter or hang completely down the sail must be let out. This allows air to circulate around the backside of the sail. When the boat is running the sai110ses its aerodynamic shape because there is no flow of air around either side of the sail. In this case it is best to let the sail out until it is perpendicular to the wind's direction (parallel to the ripples in the water) so the sail can act as a parachute to catch the wind. Note: All the adjustments affecting sail shape should be experimented with to find the best combination for different wind and wave conditions.

Badger Tech Manual

Sailing Tips

Handling P14Jfs Any Lake Mendota sailor will frequently encounter conditions where the wind is extremely gusty. This section is designed to give some ideas on how to handle your boat in a gust or in heavier weather. The general idea is to adjust boat trim, sail trim and steering to best deal with puffs and heavy weather.

l]pwind The first rule in handling puffs is to hike out. Ifpossible, loosen the hiking straps as much as is comfortable to best use the crew weight to keep the boat flat. Because the boat needs speed to power through wave, Techs hate to be pinched . . Main sheet tension and boom position are the key to maximum close hauled boat speed. But remember, the sail should never be trimmed so much that the boom is inboard of the leeward aft comer of the Tech. Also, make sure that the vang is plenty tight to keep the boom down. There are other ways to control puffs. One is to ease the sail, and the other is to head the boat more towards the wind, pinching and spilling wind /,feathering). Feathering is more efficient if the boat is worked on and off the wind a little rather than just pinched. There are two schools of thought on how to combine these techniques successfully for Techs: one says feather, one says ease the sail, and some people combine the two. Most sailors will quickly formulate their own ideas as to which works better. Generally speaking, in moderate air it is best to 1) hike out, 2) feather, and 3) ease the sail to decrease power and reduce heeling moment. If it is very windy good tech sailors will be hiked out already and will want to ease the sail andlor feather. When easing the sail. It is best to have an extremely tight boom vang to keep the boom from rising up. When the boom rises up, the sail develops a distorted shape which will in tum decrease the efficiency of the sail as well as increase the potential for a capsize.

Reaching On the reach, it is essential to keep the boat flat. The flatter the boat is the faster the boat will go. Also remember to raise the centerboard to reduce resistance and heeling moment. There are two ways to control the puffs on a reach: hiking and bearing cjf Bearing off is the most effective because it helps initiate planing, particularly if there are waves which enable the boat to surf down their face. For maximum, the sail should be sheeted in until it just stops luffing. When the puffhits hike out, ease the sail and bear off. Ride with the puff until it begins to subside, then head up a little and sheet in. This action will keep the boat in the puff a little longer and it will also keep the boat planing longer. There are two things that one should never do on a reach: 1) do not head up in the puffs and 2) do not just hold the sheet in one place; always work the sail.

Badger Tech Manual

Sailing Tips

Downwind On windy or puffy days stability is most important when heading downwind. This is particularly true in waves, because the boat tends to roll from side to side. If the wind is light and steady the board can be up most of the way to reduce drag. If it is windy, it should be down 112 to all the way to help reduce roll. Keep the crew weight centered and move the tiller as little as possible. Remember to hang onto the thwart to steady any movements. A general rule is that the heavier it blows, the farther aft the crew weight should be. This helps to prevent the bow from burying in the waves and puts more rudder in the water to give the skipper better steering control. Mainly, relax and try not to overcompensate if a rolling motion starts. Some rolling is natural with the wave motion. Practice a lot in hea-vy air and in particular practice jibing until it becomes very comfortable. Such practice will help greatly in races, because the crew will be able to concentrate more on boat speed and tactics and less on keeping the boat upright. It is also easier to jibe while surfing down a wave in heavier air because the boat is moving much faster. Ifthe wind is consistently strong, all ofthe above techniques apply, but it is often best to make more permanent adjustments on things such assail shape either on shore or between races. Refer to the earlier sections on sail shape for the proper adjustments for heavy weather sailing. .. Sailing fast comes with practice and concentration. Don't be p~eoccupied with what already happened in the race. Learn from any mistakes, but don't keep wondering what would have happened if only .... This will only keep the crew from concentrating on the present and the near future, and will probably cause mistakes.

Badger Tech Manual

Sailing Tips

SAILING GLOSSARY Abeam Ahead Amidships Anchorage Apparent wind Astern Backing wind shift Backwind

Any location either side of the boat, located on a line at right angles to one run from the bow to the stern. In front of. The portion of a vessel midway between bow and stern; also midway between starboard sides. A sheltered place or area where boat can anchor. Wind felt on a moving vessel Behind or backwards. A counter-clockwise wind shift.

Beam

To hold the mainsail or jib off to the side to cause the wind to blow onto the backside of the sail. To remove water from a boat by hand. Long, thin, narrow strips of wood that are placed in pockets sewn perpendicular to the leech of a sail and are'used to hold the leech out. the greatest breadth of the boat.

Beam reach

Sailing perpendicular to the wind.

Bearing away

Altering course away from the wind; falling off; heading down.

Bearing off/away

Altering course away from the wind on any course from head to wind until the boat begins to jibe. To sail towards the direction from which the wind blows by making a series of tacks while sailing close-hauled. Sailing upwind; close-hauled.

Bail Battens

Beat Beating Before the wind Bight Block Blowing stink Bolt rope Boom vang Boom Bow plate Bow Broaching Broad reach By the lee Capsize Cast off

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Sailing with the wind from astern, in the same direction toward which the wind is blowing Any part of a rope with the exception of the end; usually refers to a loop in a rope A pulley through which a line passes. A term made famous by Hoofer instructors. High winds! It is advised that at the first sign of the Big Stink one should Rig and Go! Rope sewn into the luff and foot of sail for attaching to the mast and boom. A wire or rope running from the boom to or near the bottom of the mast which holds the boom down. Pole or spar attached to the mast to which the foot (lower edge) of the sail is fastened. A plate that fits on the bow of the boat to which the lower end of the forestay is attached. Forward part of the hull. A sudden swooping around broadside to the wind and waves while running. Sailing with the wind coming from any direction from abeam to on the quarter. Sailing before the wind with the wind coming from the same side that the boo is on. To tip the boat over so that the mast is parallel with the water. To let go.

Glossary

Center of effort Center of lateral resistance Centerboard line Centerboard truck Centerboard Chain plate

Center point of sail area where all the force of the wind can be said to be centered. Center point of all underwater area of the hull where the hull's lateral resistance can be said to be centered. A rope or wire attached to the top of the centerboard with which it is raised or lowered. Watertight housing for the centerboard. A fiberglass or metal blade projecting through the bottom of the hull in center which prevents the boat from sliding sideways. It pivots up and back into the centerboard trunk. A plate that fits on the side of the boat to which the lower end of a shroud is attached. .

Clear ahead

A boat not overlapped wI a following boat. (see overlapped)

Clear astern

A boat not overlapped wI a leader boat.

Cleat Clew Close hauled Close reach Coming about

A formed fitting in wood or metal to which lines are made fast.

Cunningham Dagger board Deck Dinghy Displacement Down haul Downwind Draft Ease sheet Eye of the wind Fathom Foot Fore and aft Forestay Gooseneck Grommet Gungeon Gunwales Halyard Haul Head to wind Head Heading up Headway Badger Tech Manual

The lower after comer of a sail. Sailing close to the wind (sails all the way in). Sailing with sheets eased and the wind forward of the beam (sails out 1/4). Changing tacks by heading up, bow into the wind and past head to wind on the other tack (tacking). Line passed through a grommet in the luff of the sail used to flatten the sail by tightening the luff. A centerboard that slides up and down in a vertical slot. The horizontal top on the hull. A small handy rowing boat, sometimes rigged with a sail. The weight of the water displaced by the vessel. Line attached to the bottom of the boom used to flatten the sail by pulling the boom down, and thus tightening the luff of the sail. In the direction the wind is going. A boat sailing downwind is running with the wind. The depth of water to a vessel's keel. To let the sheet out. An unsailable sector between close hauled headings. Measurement of six feet. The bottom edge of a sail from Tack to Clew. In the direction of the keel. A wire running from the upper part of the mast to the bow of the boat. Hinged fitting on the mast which connects the boom to the mast. A ring sewn into the sail through which a line can be passed. The rings which, with pintels, make up the hinge assembly for the rudder. The upper edge of a boat's side. A line used to raise the sail. To pull. Having the bow pointing directly into the wind. Uppermost comer of a sail, or the toilet. Turning closer to the wind, up wind. Moving ahead.

Glossary

Heave in Heel Helm Helmsman Hiking stick Hiking straps Hull In irons In phase Inshore ISAF Jibe Jibing Knock Leech Leeward side Leeward Lift Line Luff up Luffing Luffing Lug Mainsail Mainsheet Mark Mast slot I groove Mast step Mast tangs Mast Masthead On a tack Outhaul Overlap Overtaking Painter Pinch Pintels Plane

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To haul in. To tip to one side, due to wind pressure on the sail or crew on the side. The tiller. The one who steers the boat. See TILLER EXTENSION Straps to hook toes under in co*ckpit. The actual body or shell of the boat. When a tack is not completed and the boat stalls out with the bow pointed directly into the wind. Sailing optimal angles to the next mark; tacking on knocks and sailing on lifts. Toward the shore. International Sailing Federation. To go from one tack to the other when running with the wind coming over the stem. Turning the stem through the eye of the wind. A wind shift that forces a boat to sail below its mean wind course. After edge of a sail. The side of the boat away from the wind. The direction away from the wind (opposite ofWINDWARD). A wind shift that allows a boat to sail above its mean wind course. A rope. To steer the boat more into the wind, thereby causing the sails to flap or luff. Altering course towards the wind; heading up. luffmg or bearing away is presumably the boat's proper course. When the forward part of the sail is fluttering. The forward edge of a sail. The sail set on the mainmast. The line that controls the angle of the mainsail in its relation to the wind. Any floating object w/in the water specified as so. the opening up the back (aft) edge of the mast in which the mainsail luff rope slides when it is (sail slot) hoisted. Some masts have an external sail track. The fitting in the bottom of the boat in which the bottom or heel if the mast sits. (The step is on the deck in the boat designs.) Fittings on the mast to which the forestay and shrouds attach. The vertical pole or spar that supports the boom and sails. The top of the mast. A boat is always on one tack or the other; that is the sail is always on one side or the other. A line used to haul out the clew or after comer of a sail on the boom. The condition where a line drawn across the transom of the leading overlapped by a middle boat. Passing another vessel. A rope secured in the bow of a small boat, used for tying up or towing. To sail too close to the wind so that the sails start to luff. Pins which, with gudgeons, make up the hinge assembly for the rudder. When a sailboat rises up on its own bow wave and reaches speeds far in excess of those normally associated with its waterline length.

Glossary

Port tack Port Privileged vessel Puff Pulpit Rake Reaching Ready about Rigging Rudder Running rigging Running Sailing Sailing by the lee Secure Shackle Sheet Shove off Shrouds Side slipping Sidestay Slack Slot Spreaders Squall Stalling Standing part Standing rigging Starboard tack Starboard Staying clear Staus Stern Stow Swamp Tack Tacking Taut Badger Tech Manual

The tack a boat is sailing on when the wind is coming over the port side. The left-hand side of the boat as you face the bow. One that has the right of way. A sudden burst of wind stronger than what is blowing at the time. Metal guardrail at the bow. The angle of a vessel's masts from the vertical. Sailing across the wind or any course between close-hauled and running (close, beam, broad). An expression used to indicate that the boat is about to tack. A general term applying to all tines, stays and shrouds necessary for spars and sails. A movable flat blade hinged vertically at the transom of a boat as a means of steering. It is controlled by a tiller or wheel. The part of a ship's rigging which is movable and reeves through blocks, such as halyards, sheets, etc. Sailing with the wind coming from behind the boat with the sail out at right angles to the wind. Using only the wind and water to increase, maintain or decrease speed. Sailing on a run with the wind corning over the stem from the same side as the boom (danger of jibing). To make fast; to make safe. A U-shaped piece of iron or steel with eyes in the ends, closed by a shackle in. A line that controls the angle of the sail in its relation to the wind. To leave; to push a boat away from a pier or vessel's side. Wire side stays running from the upper part of the mast to both the starboard and port sides of the boat. The forestay and shrouds form a triangle which supports the mast inn an upright position. When the boat is moving sideways (to leeward). side. (not tacking or jibing) Shroud or wire on the side of the tech attached from the mast to the gunwale. Not fastened; loose. Also, to ease off. The gab between the jib and the main sail through which the wind is funneled. Poles used to push the shrouds outboard. A sudden and violent gust of wind often accompanied by rain. The turbulent effect of air on the lee side of a sail when trimmed in too far. The fixed part of a rope--the long end, when tying knots. The part of a ship's rigging which is permanently secured and immovable; e.g. stays, shrouds, etc. The tack a boat is sailing on when the wind is coming over the starboard side. The right side, facing the bow from aft. Avoiding collision by altering course when not the right-of-way boat. Rigging that supports the mast, Shrouds. The after (back) part of a boat. To put in place. To sink by filling with water. Lower forward comer of a sail. Coming about; turning the bow through the eye of the wind. With no slack; strict as to discipline.

Glossary

Telltales Thwart Tiller extension Tiller Topside Transom Traveler Trim Turnbuckle Turtle Underway Upwind Veer Weather helm Weather side Wind shadow Windward side Windward

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Ribbon or yam strips attached to rigging or sails to indicate wind action or direction. Support for centerboard trunk and hull across the beam at mid length. Hinged extension of the tiller which allows the skipper to control the tiller while hiking or sitting forward. A bar used to control the rudder. Above the deck. The portion of the stem to which the rudder is attached. Line which runs across the transom, and which the mainsheet travels on. To sheet in. A metal appliance consisting of a thread and screw capable of being set up or slacked back and used for setting up standing rigging. To tip the boat over so that the mast is pointing to the bottom of the lake. Said of a boat moving and under control of the helmsman. Technically, a boat is underway when not aground, at anchor, or made flat to the shore. In the direction from which the wind is coming. A boat sailing upwind is sailing toward the wind. A clockwise wind shift. When the tiller has to be held off the center line and toward the weather side or wind to keep a boat on its course. The windward side. The area affected by the turbulent air from a sailboat's sails. The side of a boat which the wind crosses ftrst. The direction from which the wind is coming.

Glossary

APPENDiX A - EXERC1SES &

RlLLS

Exercises In addition to on the water training, one's sailing can be improved by getting in shape physically. Both aerobic (running, swimming, biking) and anaerobic (weight work, etc.) workouts are helpful. Since, most people know what they like to do for an aerobic work out these won't be discussed further. Anaerobic conditioning for sailing can include the following, but could also include other exercises. One of the hardest things to get in shape for during the off season is hiking. The best conditioning for this is to work out on a hiking bench (one can often be found in the chart room). When working out on the bench one should do both situps and survival hiking (just hanging out and timing how long this can be done for). A word of caution however, be careful of too much knee strain from hiking, especially if it has been a few months since the last sail of the season. If a hiking bench is not available, or in addition to hiking bench workouts, good old fashioned situps will also help one stay in shape. If possible, these can be done on an incline to increase their effectiveness. Other muscles can be kept in shape by weight training. No details will be included here but exercises which are helpful include: leg presses, rowing, arm curls, lat pulldowns, and leg extensions, as well as miscellaneous arm exercises performed with dumbbells. Before starting any weight work out it is wise to talk to someone who knows what they are doing, or at least get some printed material with illustrations of proper form to follow as a guide.

Drills - One Boat Tack and Jibe on Timer For this drill one needs a timer with a repeat function equipped with an alarm. When beginning, set the time interval at 1 minute and tack each time the alarm goes off. With increased proficiency, lesson the interval 5·10 seconds at a time. Try to attain 10 seconds. Repeat entire exercise jibing.

Tack and Jibe ASAP This drill is similar to the above drill, but no timer is necessary. Start by tacking, then as soon as way is gained tack again, etc. Repeat the entire exercise jibing.

Spins Start by tacking, follow immediately with a jibe. Then repeat the sequence as quickly as possible as many times as possible. Then switch directions of the spin.

Welgltt Steering First, (to get used to the feel of weight steering), sail on a close reach course on either tack, keeping the boat flat. Holding the tiller loose enough to move freely but firm enough so that the boat does not head up due to weather helm while still flat. Now, lean or move to the leeward side of the boat (amount of motion depends on wind strength), and by allowing the tiller to slide freely watch how the boat heads up. After getting back to the starting position, lean or move to windward, again keeping the tiller in a loose grip, and watch the boat fall off. Repeat this until the motion feels comfortable and natural. Repeat on other tack. Second, repeat the above, but try to let go of the tiller during the lean. While doing this, the hiking stick tends to get stuck between the tiller and the floatation tank. To avoid this, tie the stick to the tiller using the end of the halyard passed under the thwart. Third, remove the rudder and pull the centerboard about half way up. Now sail. Don't be surprised to be going in circles at first.

Blilld Sailing Try to get a better feel of the boat under various points of sail by sailing with a blindfold. If sailing in a boat without a crew, it is advised that instead of using a blindfold, one should just close their eyes. Also, this should be done away from other boats and heavy traffic areas.

Backwards Sailing Start by sailing upwind, then slow down and push the sail out so that it backwinds. Soon the boat should begin to sail backwards. Use care at first since the boat will feel more skiddish sailing this way, also note that the steering is reversed. If one is feeling brave, they can try to jibe while doing this.

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Appendix

Drills ... Two Boats Tail to Pass The two boats set up so that one is just behind the other, then the one behind tries to pass the one ahead while the one ahead tries to stop them.

720'S - Go & Sail- Sail & Go The two boats set up so that they are sailing towards a specific point on any point of sail such that they are each the same distance from said point. Then the first boat does a 720 while the second boat just sails, after which the second boat does a 720 while the first boat sails. They then compare their current distance to the point to see whose 720 was performed more effectively.

LlIJf and Accelerate The two boats set up as above except that both are going up wind and luffing their sails. Then on GO shouted from one of the boats (which boat is predetermined), they both accelerate and start sailing upwind and after sailing about 30 seconds see which boat has sailed farther and thus accelerated better.

Head Start (10 Sec) on a Course On either a triangular or windward leeward course, one boat starts sailing for speed around the course. The second boat waits 10 seconds and then also starts sailing the course. The second boat tries to overtake the first in one lap around the course.

Drills - 3 or More Boats Preset Number (ITacks and Jibes On a windward leeward course the boats start at the leeward mark and sail towards the windward mark. However, they must do exactly a preset number of tacks determined by either someone helping with the practice session or the lead boat. Once upwind they round the mark and similarly do a set number of jibes downwind. This drill can be continued indefinitely, however, if the boats get too spread out it is wise to consolidate and start over.

Follow the Leader The entire fleet lines up so that all of the boats are sailing single file as close as possible to each other. The leader then sails, doing as many boat handling maneuvers as quickly as possible and those following imitate all moves and try not to lose distance or overtake the leader.

Tack & Jibe on Whistle The fleet sails either upwind for tacking or dead downwind for jibing and every time a whistle is blown by a determined person everyone must either tack or jibe.

Slalom Course - Stagger - Feedback and Timing Buoys should be set up as a slalom course from windward to leeward. Boats then sail the course rounding the buoys as close as possible without hitting them. Boats should be staggered to start this. More can be gained from this exercise if someone is observing and giving feedback to those sailing and/or timing those sailing so sailors can see speed differences generated by various technique changes.

Repetetive Starts A starting sequence (2-3 minutes) is run and boats start as usual. However, immediately after clearing the starting line the boats must circle back (keeping clear of those not yet having cleared the line), and set up for another start, the countdown for which started at the starting signal of the last start.

Timed Starts All boats must be on the windward wide of the line at one minute, and sail downwind across it after this point. Each boat must then only tack or jibe once before the actual starting signal.

Badger Tech Manual

Appendix

APPENDiX B - OIHER RAC1NG Racing Opportunities For Ho()/er Sailors Series at H06fers: Tech series are offered Wednesday & Friday nights. Both are open to all Hoofer sailors and, are· another great chance for beginners to learn how to race. More series are held for Sailboards, Interlakes, M20's and 470's throughout the sailing season. Talk to the racing coordinator or refer to the calendar and general information sheet for more details.

Other series in Madison: 1. Mendota Yacht Club offers series for a variety of boats including M20's, E and scows, and Cruiser boats. Races are held on Wednesday nights as well as Saturday and Sunday depending on the particular fleet. Check the racing board for more information. A~

2. Lake Monona Sailing Club offers series for five fleets of boats: C-scow, Flying Scot, Multi-hull, Thistle and a one design fleet which accommodates any boat not belonging to one of the above categories. Series are held on Wednesday night and Saturday. Check the racing board for more information. Neither boat ownership nor commitment to an entire series is necessary to race with these clubs. Sometimes skippers from either club need a crew for just one race. This is an excellent chance to observe and participate in top quality racing.

Undergraduate Sailing Team: Any full time undergraduate is eligible to sail with the intercollegiate sailing team. The team competes during the fall and spring in regattas against other universities from around the country. This is excellent way to hone your racing skills since college regattas feature fast paced short courses. Other benefits include meeting other sailors from Wisconsin as well as from the Midwest and participating in what many college sailors call liThe best four years of their lives."

Badger Tech Manual

Appendix

APPENDIX C - SUGGESTED READING Coles, K. Adlard. HEAVY WEATHER SAILING. Found at the Madison Public Library. Copley, Peter. DINGHY RACING. Well written but no pictures. I

Creagh-Osbourne, Richard. THIS [S RACING - TACT[CS AND STRATEGY IN ACTION. Excellent graphics, comes with film on topic. In the Sail Magazine book series. Dellenbaugh, David and Brad. SMALL BOAT SAILING: A COMPLETE GUIDE. Produced by Sports Illustrated Magazine. Dent, Nicholas. HOW TO SAIL: A PRACTICAL COURSE IN BOAT HANDLING. Elvstrom, Paul. ELVSTROM EXPLAINS THE NEW RACING RULES. Farnham, Moulton H. SAILING FOR BEGINNERS. Found at the Madison Public Library. Goodman, Di. LEARNING TO SAIL. Found at the Madison Public Library. Hoyt, Garry. GO FOR THE GOLD. Breezy writing but lightweight. Imhoff, Fred and Lex Pranger. BOAT TUNING FOR SPEED. Better than the Fletcher book. Part of the Sail series. Good graphics. Jobson, Gary and Mike Toppa. SPEED SAILING. Lewis, Larry. SAIL IT FLAT. Good reading for Laser sailors. Marchaj, C. A. SAILING THEORY AND PRACTICE. A classic book for a technical! mathematical explanation of how II boat works. If you ever wondered why a boat works, read this. Melges, Buddy. SAILING SMART. An autobiography of sorts. It offers excellent tips on many aspects of sailing, especially on racing on inland lakes. Moore, James. STARTING SA[LING. Found at the Madison Public Library. North Sails Inc. NORTH U: SMART COURSE. North Sails Inc. NORTH U: FAST COURSE. O'Day, George D. SAIL [N A DAY! Found at the Madison Public Library. Pinaud, Yves-Louis. SA [LING FROM START TO F[NISH. Excellent book, good photo spread of tacking a 50S, (e.g. 470). Includes physical fitness, diet, etc. Make sure to get the edition with the current rules. Rousmaniere, John. A GLOSSARY OF MODERN SAILING TERMS. Toghill, Jeff E. SAILING FOR BEGINNERS. Found at the Madison Public Library. Twinarne, Eric. DINGHY TEAM RACING. The bible for this cut-throat sport, but its rules section is out of date. Twiname, Eric. START TO WIN. Written by a dinghy sailor for dinghy sailors. Excellent text and graphics. Walker, Stuart. THE TACTICS OF SMALL BOAT RACING. Found at the Madison Public Library. Walker, Stuart. A MANUAL OF SA[L TRIM. Watts, Alan. WIND AND SAILING BOATS. Text book on subject. Has interesting chapter on wind shifts. Whidden, Tom and Michael Levitt. THE ART AND SCIENCE OF SAILS: A GUIDE TO MODERN MATERIALS, CONSTRUCTION, AERODYNAMICS, UPKEEP AND USE. Most recent book on the topic. Will likely become the bible for aerodynamic theory and sail trim.

Badger Tech Manual

Appendix

INDEX Lift,5,38 Line,3,38 Luffing, 13,38 Mainsheet, 15,38 Mark, 28, 38 Mast, 4, 9-10, 25-26, 38 Membership, 1 Outhaul, 4, 32, 39 Painter, 4, 10, 25-26, 39 Pier landings, 23-24 Pinching, 6, 33, 39 Port, 6, 14,39 Port tack, 17,39 Puffs, 34-35, 39 Racing, 2, 43 Ratings, 2 Reaching, ,34,39 Rigging, 9-10, 39 Right of way, 27-29 Righting a tech, 25-26 Rules, 27-29 Running, 7-8, 17-18,21,39 Rudder, 3-4, 9-10, 31, 39 Safety, 11 Safety position, 22 Sail trim, 3, 12-15, 17,22-24,32-33 Sailing by the lee, 17-18,20,39 Sheeting, 3, 12~15, 17,22-24,32-33 Sidestay, 3-4,39 Sound signal starting, 30 Speed,13,23,31-35 Starboard, 6, 14,40 Starboard tack, 6-7, 15-16, 18,40 Straight course sailing, 13 Tacking, 14,40 Telltales, 3, 18, 32-33, 40 Thwart, 3-4, 25, 40 Tiller, 3-4, 9, 12-25, 40 Trim, 3, 12-24,40 Turning, 14-15,31-32 Wisconsin Union, 1 Wind clock, 7-8,21 Windward, 25, 40

Backwind, 7, 36 Batten, 4,36 Beam reach, 7-8, 18,21,36 Bear off, 34, 36 Boat trim, 31 Boathouse, 1 BOC, 1 Boom, 4, 14-15, 18, 19-20,33,36 Boom vang, 3-4, 9, 36 Broaching, 6, 36 Broad reach, 7-8, 18,21,36 Capsize, 25-26, 36 Centerboard, 4-5, 9, 25-26,31,37 Clinic, 2 Close reach, 7-8, 21, 37 Close haul, 7-8, 15,21,37 Coming about, 15,37 Crew weight, 31-35 Downhaul, 4,9,32,37 Easing, 34, 37 Eye of wind, 7-8, 14-15,37 Falling off, 14 Feathering, 6, 34 Footing, 6 Forestay, 4, 37 Glossary, 36-40 Gunwale, 3-4, 38 Halyard, 4, 9, 38 Harvey, 25 Heavy weather, 10, 19,35 Heel, 3, 31, 38 Hike out, 31-35 Hiking stick, 9, 14-~5, 38 Hiking strap, 3-4, 25, 38 Hoofers, 1 In irons, 7, 12,23-24,38 Instruction, 1 ISAF,27,38 Jibing, 17-21,38 Knots, 9-10 Lake Mendota, back cover Leeward, 12, 25, 38 Liability, 1

Badger Tech Manual

Index

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